Method of and machine for manufacturing shoes



June 27, 1939. .A. LA'BRIE I 2,163,689

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING SHOES Original Filed'Dec. 31, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet l Jun'e'27, 1939. A LABRIE 2,163,689

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING SHOES Original Filed Dec. 31, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Ihwmtor I /uw w June 27, 1939. A. LABRIE 2,163,689

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING SHOES Original File d Dec. 51, 1955 4 Shets-Sheet 5 S fie yen for June 1939- A. LABRIE 2,163,689

.- METHOD OF' AND MACHINE MANUFACTURING SHOES Original Filed Dec. 31, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented June :27,

Anthony Labrie,

s PATENT OFFICE ACTURING SHOES Haverhill, Mass" assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson; N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Original application December 31, 1935,

Divided and this application 130- No. 56,966. cember 14, 1937,

15 Claims The present invention relates to a machine assembling and sewing in which type of shoe the stitches of the seam holding the shoe together and insole of the shoe and-appear on the outer surface of the out- In accordance the invention provides a novel method of manufacturing, in a simplified for, and a method of, shoes of the McKay type,

pass through'the outsolefupper sole and at the inside of the shoe. with its general objects,

and improved manner, shoes of the McKay other similar types, and a new and improved mause in performing the .several steps of the method. The invention is hereinafter illustrated and described as embodied that disclosed in inventors co-pending application for U. S. patent er 31, 1935, of which chine well adapted for in a machine similar to Serial No. 56,966, filed Decemb the present application is a division.

In the manufacture of a McKay shoe according Serial Serial No. 179,681

(Cl. 12-6) 1 invention contemplates-assembling the parts of the shoe on a last and, while the parts are supported on the last, working the upper into lasted position and, without removing the last, secur ing the outscle and upper permanently together 5 by a through-and-through seam, the stitches of which appear upon the inside of the shoe and upon the outer surface of the outscle.

A feature of the invention contemplatestemporarily holding the upper in lasted position dur- 10 ing the sewing operation and preferably a series of stickerpoints are employed for'this purpose, which sticker points are mounted in the last and are projected through the upper and through the insole, when the shoe is provided with an insole, after the upper has been worked into lasted positionand are withdrawn from the shoe parts after the sewing operation or before the final finishing of the shoe so as to permit the shoe to be removed to usual shoe making practice, the insole is secured from the last. I 20 to a suitable solid wooden last by tacks. The The new and improved machine which emupper is then applied to the last and molded into bodies various features of the present invention close fitting relation therewith so that the marcomprises a last upon which the upper, the insole,

' ginal edges of the upper overlap the edges of the when the shoe is provided with an insole, and the insole. Additionaltacks are driven through the outsole 'may be assembled, and lasting and sewoverlapping p fastening the upper to the insole.

from the'last. After remov shoe and to cooperate with a straightreciproc ortions of the insole and upper against a metal plate on the bottom of the last to clench the tacks in position, thus temporarily The temporarily fastened upper and insole are then removed al from the last, the shoe is sewed on a. so-called McKay stitcher having a rotary horn designed to extend within the atthe provision of any suitable forms of lasting ing hook needle in securingv an outsole to the and sewing mechanismsa temporarily fastened upper and insole, the the last in working the upper into lasted position stitches passing through the edges of all the parts. and in forming the through-and-through seam.

Thereafter, the marginal edges of the outscle are trimmed, and the heel is attached.

This method of manufacture has the obj tionable feature that the'rem while the insole and upper are held together the temporary fasteners only, often strains tears loose these fasteners so that difficulty best results this m and otherfinishing operations.

a free from the defects above I object in view, the method of the present An object of the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing shoes which will oval of the last,

mentioned. with For convenience of operation, and for the attainment of uniform results, as well as to provide a simple and eflicient machine, the lasting mech- 40 anism preferably consists of bed lasting units operating from the heel and toe ends of the shoe to grip and wipe the upper over the surface of the supporting last. Also, to provide a simple and compact machine by which the through-and- 46 through seam 'may be formed while the upper and outscle are supported on the last, the invention contemplates mounting the sewing mechanism and last in such a manner that the mechanism and'last are relatively movable towards and from operative position and are-also rotatably movable to transfer the point of operation of the sewing devices around the shoe.

In order to permit the stitches of the seam to pass througl'r'the' outscle and upper and appear 55 by or dapted to cooperate with 35 of machine which may be utilized the series of upper holding points, together with the means whereby these points may be projected through the insole and upper and are arranged to holdthe upper in place after being worked into lasted position by the upper clamping and wiping devices.

In addition to the features above referred to,

the machine hereinafter described as embodying the several features of the invention comprises many other novel constructions and arrangements of parts hereinafter described and claimed, the

advantages of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art from the following description, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which is illustrated the preferred form in practising the method of the present invention.

Referring to the drawings Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of the machine of the invention showing .an already lasted shoe being sewed to permanently secure the parts thereof together; Fig. 2 is a view in side elevation of the machine, looking from the right, certain parts of the lasting units having been omitted; 3 is a sectional view on an enlarged scale taken along the line 33 of Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a' view in front elevation, partly broken away, andshown insection, of a portion of the machine illustrating the relative positions of the shoe and sewing mechanism during sewing 'operations; Fig. 5 is aplan view-of a support and form for guiding the sewing mechanism about the shoe; Figsfl is a view in side elevation of a shoe, as constructed on the machine, embodying the present invention; Fig. 7 is a sectional view, showing the inside of the shoe, as viewed along the line 1 1 of Fig. 6; Fig. 8 is a sectional view of the shoe shown in Fig. 6, taken Fig. 9 is a view of a bottom portion of the shoe, looking at the tread surface of the outsole.

Referring to Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings the-illustrated machine comprises a base constructed of four upright angle section legs 2 connected at their upper ends to a horizontal flanged metal top 4 and by a partition 5 similar in shape to the ,top. To support the parts of the shoe to be operated upon, a hollow metal last 6 is removably mounted upon the top 4 of the base. -In the manufacture of ashes, an insole is first applied to the bottom of the last and tacksnre driven therethrough into wooden plugs 8 (Fig. 15) inserted into the last bottom to receive stiffeneris to be used, it is perforated to receive one of, thetacks which secures the insole to the last. The upper is then placed over the last in position to be acted upon by the lasting devices. Atthe toe andvheel ends of the last are lasting units mounted on the machine to work'an upper over the last and cause it to conform properly with the curved surfaces-'of the last, the margin of the upper overlapping the edges of the insole. The the machine base by sliding carriages l0 mounted on horizontal guideways H along which they are movable towards and from the last. The operating devices of; each lasting unit are similar to those-illustrated and described in U. S. Patents No. 1,495,169 of May 27, 1924, and No. 1,284,870 of-November 12, 1918 and constructed in the manner discIosed more clearly in inventors copending application referred to in which-there 1 ing band has been forced along the line-8+8; and

intermediate their endsthem. If a metal, shank lasting units :are supported on is an uppenembracing and clamping band comprising a supporting chain l2 backed by a soft flexible facing and a' pair of oppositely moving wiper plates 14. Each upper clamping bandis advanced and closed about one end of the shoe by manipulating a hand lever ll extending towards the front of the machine. After the clampagainst the shoe, the wiper plates ll are moved inwardly towards .each other to gather the margin of the upper over the bottom of the-last and toiron down the pleats thus formed in the upper margin, in the manner set forth in inventors application.

To move the carriage ll of the lasting units towards and from the last and hold them inplace on the slides during lasting operations, a hand wheel I8 is provided on each carriage/for rotatinga spur gear 20 engaging a rack in the guideway and a spring pressed locking plunger 2 2 is slidably mounted in each carriage to engage an opening 24 in the guideway when the carriage is moved to operative position. This mechanism sewing mechanism, also mounted on the machine,

is swung into operative relation with the last to secure the shoe parts togethenwith a perma-' nent seam passingthrough the parts and appearing at the tread surface and within the shoe.

While the lasting units are being moved away and the sewing mechanism is being swung into operative relation with the shoe, the parts are held temporarily in posit on by a series of sticker points, to be described more. fully hereinafter.

As more clearly illustrated in Figures 6 to 9, the shoe consists of an upper 26, an insole 28, and an outsole 30 although it is within the scope of the invention to construct a shoe in the same general manner, but omitting the insole 20. The upper 26 is formed over the last i'in the man- ,ner described. After thelasting operations are completed, and the tacks removed; the space between the inturned edges of the upper may be filled by a suitable plastic or other material 32. The outsole 30 is then positioned in proper relation to be attached, and the sewing mechanism is operated to forma chainstitch seam 34, the chain of which appears in a preformed groove at the outer surface of the outsole.

To clamp the outsole to the shoe during the sewing operation a form or clamping plate 36 (see Figs. 4 and 5) is provided, shaped to correspond with the bottom curvature of the shoe and having a soft sponge rubber pad 3,8 on its lower side to, prevent injury to the finished surface of the outsole. The form 36 is mounted on a vertical rod 40 having a triangular shaped reenforcing brace 42 extending lengthwise of the form. The upper end of the rod 40 is fixed to the forward end of a horizontally extending arm 44 (Figs. .1 and 2) secured at its rearward-end to a vertical shaft 46 mounted loosely in bearings 48 and 50 connected with the rear legs of the machine base.

The sewing mechanism, similar to that-liescribed in inventors application; carried in a frame consisting of a vertical plate 52 having a right angle flange portion 54 at its forward end. The frame is mounted on a continuous curved track support, "mounted on vertical pins 58 (see Figs. 1 and 2) extending upwardly from an open ended arm 66, also secured to the vertical shaft 46 which supports the form '36. The end of arm 66 is shaped to surround the last when thearm is lowered over it, so that the curved track and the edges of the form 36 will be spaced to provide a slot through which the sewing mechanism may operate on the shoe. To permit the sewing mechanism and the form to be moved together towards and from the last, means are provided for raising the shaft 46 so that the arm 66 and support 56 will clear the last. The'lower end of the shaft is rotatably connected to a block 62 (see Fig. 2) which is pivotally connected to the upper ends of a pair of links 64. The lower, ends of links .64 are connected to an am; 6'6 secured to a horizontal rock shaft 66 rotatable in suitable bearings on the rearward legs 2. At the right end of rock shaft 66is fixed a forwardly extendingtreadle I6 which, when depressed, acts to raise the sewing mechanism and form-36 through the connections thus described. To hold the sewing .mechanism and form in raised position, the-shaft 46 carries a collar ,H (see Fig. 2) engaged by a vertically elongated latch plate I2 operated yieldingly against the collar. To retract the latch plate from the collar a iii) hand lever 'l3 connected to the latch plate is pulled forwardly, the latch plate being withdrawn from beneath the collar I I, so that the sewing mecha nism and form 36 may movedownwardly against the shoe by gravity. To force the form to a still lower position against the outsole of a shoe so that the outsole may be forced into closer fitting I relation with the lasted upper and insole, the rock shaft 68 carries at its leftend an arm I4 connected to the rearward end of a treadle lever 16 pivotally mounted intermediate its ends on the left-forward leg 2 of the machine. Downward pressure on the forward end of treadle lever 16 is thus transmitted through the rock shaft 66 and to the form.

The support '56, as best shown in Figs. 4 and 5'.

has three rounded rail or track portions,-one at the top,. one at the side, and one beneath the support, along which correspondingly shaped ti'uck'wheels I6, 66, and 62 on the sewing mechanism ride. In the rearward end of the sewing frame .is pivotally supported a vertical carrier 64 for a reciprocating needle bar 66 to the lower end of which is fixed a straight hook needle 66, the needle bar carrier being so located that the needle will pass through the space between the form 36 and the track 56. During the travelling movement of the sewing frame, the needle bar carrier is moved forwardly and rearwardly transversely to the line of feed by the engagement of a finger '96 with the edge of the sole clamping form 36,

as more particularly. explained in inventors application above referred to.

In order to advance the sewing mechanism along the support 56 with a feeding movement between the reciprocations of the needle, a shaft in the sewing frame carries a spur gear 92 which engages rack teeth 94 (see Figs. 4 and 5) formed at the inner edge of the support 56. The gear shaped supporting plate I62 carried by a double armed bracket I64 fixed to the upper end of a. hollow support post I66 (Fig. 3), the lower end of which is flanged and made fast to the partition 5 of the machine base. The hollow support post I66 is of suflicient length and so located that the sole plate 96 will lie flush with the edges of the 'last and also be equally spaced from the sides of the last. The marginal edges of the form plate 36 which guide'the-transverse movementof the needle bar carrier 84 are shaped to direct the needle in a path corresponding to that of the looper in the slot 98 between needle strokes- The insole 28 and the outsole 36 of the shoe are perforated under their heel seat portions to provide openings for a shaft -I 68 carried by the form 36, and when the sewing mechanism and form are swung into operative relation withthe last, the

shaft I68 passes through the perforations provided and readily fits within the opening of a part carried by the sole plate of the last. The

shaft I68 in this relation acts as a means for properly locating the parts of the shoe and form on the last during assembly. To assist further in positioning the form 36 on the last in the proper relation, the'vertical shaft 46 which supports the when the tongues thereon coincide with the slot II2, the shaft I66 wil. be in position to enter the opening in the sole plate. Before applying the outsole to.a shoe, the outsole out to the proper size and properly grooved is slipped within the I 'track 56 beneath form 36 where it is held by springs II4 fastened inside the support at suitating position.

To fasten the insole and upper of a shoe temporarily after the lasting units have operated, a series of sticker points are provided to operate from within the last, as indicated at II6 (Fig. 3).

The sticker points are secured to a sticker point I operating plate H8 and pass through aligned openings in the sole plate 96 and support plate I62. The sticker points are of a diameter to fit the holes in the sole and support plates, re-

spectively, and their upper ends are reduced in diameter and sharpened to facilitate penetration of the shoe parts. the sticker point operating plate H8 causes the sticker points to be reciprocated into and from the insole and upper. The sticker points are so located and are of such length that they will Vertical movement of pass through the insole and upper just inside surface of the outsole, but will not pass through- -the outer or tread surface thereof.

To reciprocate the sticker points, the sticker point supporting plate H6 is connected to the upper end of a rod I26 (Fig. 3) passing'loosely through 'the'hollow post I66 and having a con-. nection at its lower end with. the central part of a sticker lowering foot operated lever I22 fulcrumed at its rearward end in the base of the machine. To raise the sticker points and force them through the insole and upper of a shoe, a sticker raising foot lever I24. (Fig. 1) is connected at its rearward end with the lower. end of rod I and is fulcrumed-between its ends on the machine frame. r v

After the sewing operations are finished, the heel of the shoe may be attached, the edges trimmed and other finishing operations performed while the shoe remains supported on the last. Upon removing the shoe the stitches passing through all of the shoe parts will provide ample strength to hold the shoe against distortion as a result of the force required in removing insole, and thereafter removing the shoe it from the last.

Having thus explained the nature and object of the invention, and having specifically described avinachine embodying the invention in its preferred form, what is claimed is:

1. A method of making shoes'which comprises assembling an upper and an insole on a last, lasting the upper over the insole, placing an outsole on the lasted upper and insole, and se-.

curing the insole, upper, and outsole permanently together while on the last by a thread seam,

insole and upper from within the shoe, placing an outsole on the lasted upper and insole, securing the insole, upper and outsole permanently together by a thread seam, the stitches of which pass through the partsand appear at-the outer surface of the outsole and inner surface of the from the last, v

3. A method of making .shoes which comprises assembling an upper and an insole on a last, lasting the upper over the-insole, temporarily fastening-the overlapping edges of the upper and insole together by means passing through the insole and upper from within the shoe, placing an. outsole on the lasted upper and insole, securing the insole, upper and outsole permanently together by a threadseam, the stitches of which pass through the parts and appear at the outer surface of the outsole and inner surface of the insole, withdrawing the temporary fastening 'means and thereafter removingvthe shoe from the last.

= upper 'over the insole, proiecting sticker points .4. A method of making shoes which comprises assembling an upper and an insole on a last,

lasting the upper over the insole, projecting sticker points 'fromwithin the last through the overlapping edges of the upper and insole, placing an outsole on the lasted upper and insole, securing the insole, upper and outsole perma-, nently together by a thread seam, the stitches of which passthrough the parts and appear at the outer surface of the outsole andv inner surface of the insole, drawing; into the last the sticker points from the insole and upper, and thereafter removing the shoe from the last.

,5. A method of making shoes which comprises assembling-an upper and an insole.on a last, lasting separately thejheel and toe ends of the from within the last throughthe overlapping edges of the upper and insole after the ends of the upper are lasted, placing an outsole on the lasted upper and insole and securing the insole, upper and outsole permanently together by a thread seam, the stitches of which pass through the parts and appear'at the outer surface of the outsole and thereafter withdrawing the sticker points to permit removing the shoe from the last. r

6. A method of making shoes which comprises applying an upper to a last, workingthe upper into lasted relation tothe last, placing an out-- sole on the lasted upper and securing the outsole' and upper permanently together while on the last by a thread scam, the stitches of which pass through the parts and appear at the outer surface of.the outsole and the inside of the shoe.

7. A method of making shoes which comprises applying an upper to a last, working the upper into lasted relation to the last, temporarily fastening the marginal edges of the upper to the last by means penetrating the upper from within the shoe, placing an outsole on the lasted upper, securing the outsole and upper permanently together while on the last by a thread seam, the stitches of which pass through the parts and appear at the outer surface of the outsole and inside of the shoe and finally withdrawing the temporary fastening means to permit the shoe to be removed from the last.

v8. A machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having, in combination, a last, and means cooperating with the last to work an upper into 'lasted position over the last and to secure an outsole permanently to the .lasted upper by a thread s'eam, the stitches'of which pass through the parts andappearat the outer surface of the outsole and inside of the shoe.

9. A machine for used in the manufacture of shoes having, in combination, a last, means cooperating with the last to'work an upper into lasted position over an insole on the last and to secure an outsole to a lasted upper and insole by a thread seanf, the stitches of which pass through the parts and appear on the outer surface of the outsole and the inner surface of the insole, and means fortemporarilyholding the insole, and upper together while the outsole is being secured thereto.

10. A machine .for use in the manufacture of shoes having, in combination, a hollow last, upper clamping and wiping means cooperating with the last to work a shoe upper into lasted position over an insole on the last, and sewing mechanismto secure an outsole to the lasted upper and insole'on the last by a thread seam, the stitches of which pass through the parts and appear on the outer surface of the outsole and the inner surface of the insole. v

11. A machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having, in combination, a hollow last, upper .clamping and wiping means movable relatively to the last towards and from positions to work the upper into lasted condition over an insole on the last, sewing mechanism also movable rela; tively to the last towards and from a position to to temporarily-hold the parts until the seam is completed.

, shoes having, in combination, a hollow last, upper clamping and wiping means movable relatively to the last towards and from positions to work the upper into lasted condition over an insole on the last, sewing mechanism also movable relativelyto the last towards and from a position to secure an outsole to the upper and insole by a thread seam, the stitches of which pass through the parts and appear at the outer surface of the outsole and the inner surface of the insole, fastening devices for holding the upper and insole temporarily together while the wiping means is being moved away and the sewing mechanism is being moved into operating position, and a member operable to withdraw the fastening devices after the seam is completed.

13. A machine for use in the manufacture ofshoes having, in combination, a hollow last, upper secure an outsole to the upper and insole by a thread seam, the stitches of which pass through the parts and appear atthe outer surface of the outsole and the inner surface of the insole, sticker points within the last, and means for projecting the sticker points through the bottom of the last to hold the upper and insole temporarily together while the wiping means is beingmoved away and the sewing mechanism is being moved of the outsole to bring the outsole into proper I registry with the shoe bottom while securing the outsole to the upper.

, 15. A machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having, in combination, a last, means for permanently securing an outsole to a lasted 'upper retained on the last, a. shaft extending into an opening within the heel seat of the last and yielding means connectedto. the shaft for engaging the side edges of the outsole to bring the outsole into proper registry with the shoe bottom while securing the outsole to the upper.

ANTHONY LABRIE. 

